Kenya Gicherori AB Washed /// 1 kg
Kamille og steinfrukt.
Gicherori har alltid vært fantastisk og kunne by på det beste av Kenya, men denne sesongen er det noe virkelig outstanding med denne kaffen. Denne tror jeg du kommer til å like.
Du kjenner entusiasmen min boble nå ikke sant? Det er en grunn til det, vi bare må dele gleden.
- Importert fra Nordic Approach.
- Hele Bønner, send beskjed om du ønsker malt kaffe.
- Cupping score: 88
- Botanisk Varietet: Coffea arabica, Ruiru 11, Batian, SL-28, SL-34
- Prosess: Vaska
- Plukket i: 2020
- Kooperativ: Gicherori Coffee Factory i Embu distriktet.
Price paid to the Farmer Cooperative Society: USD 8.00 / kg of sorted green coffee
FOB: USD 10.31 / kg. Stock market price pr kilo 4,4$.
Sensorial information based on Pre-shipment sample 12.05.21.
“ Beautiful and complex acidity. Layered currants and citrus balanced by a candylike sweetness. Super juicy mouthfeel. Flavour notes of pink grapefruit, red and black currant, rhubarb and milk caramel..”
Dette sier bonden/importøren om kaffen.
Gicherori Coffee Factory was a total surprise this year. We might have cupped it in the past years, but never found it this great. For those who want a complex and great classic Kenyan, this is a really good option.
Gicherori is from Embu, where we have started to see really nice coffees. This is one out of two coffees from Embu this year, from the Kibugu Cooperative which is home to five factories. This year we bought coffees from two stations, Gicherori and Gikirima.
Each lot consists of coffees from hundreds of smallholders from the area surrounding the washing station (factory). The team at the factory sort the cherries before they go into production. The coffees are traditionally processed with dry fermentation, before being washed and graded in channels, and dried on raised beds. The farmers mainly grow SL28 and SL34, but as with almost all Kenyan cooperative coffees, there can be a mix of everything. Other common cultivars are K7, Ruiru 11 and now also Batian.
Origin: Gicherori Kibugu FCS
Gicherori Factory is part of the Kibugu Farmer’s Cooperative Society. It was started in 1994. Current membership stands at 1,200. The area surrounding the Gicherori Factory is densely populated and has farmers who have between 100 and 1000 coffee trees.
Gicherori factory is situated at Kibugu location, Gicherori sub-location in Embu County. The factory treats all water in soak pits to ensure no contamination run into the local waterways, which are a source for drinking water. The community also places great importance on protecting the indigenous trees that remain in the area, so that the local bird life can be sustained.
SOILS AND CLIMATE
The Gicherori Factory sits on the slopes of Mount Kenya in the Manyatta division of Embu County. Rich volcanic soil, an annual rainfall of almost 2,000mm, and the abundance of SL 28 and SL 34 varieties all lend immense quality to the production of coffee in this specific area. In this county, smallholders deliver coffee in cherry to washing stations
After picking, the members deliver the fresh coffee berries to the mill, where they are depulped (the fruit skin and pulp is removed mechanically), then fermented in large tanks and washed with stored clean water. The waste water is cleaned before being led back into nature, which is common at most mills. After washing, the coffee is dried on typical African raised beds that allow good air circulation between the beans. Beans are dried to between 11 and 13 % and then brought to the Central Kenya Coffee Mill in Nyeri for grading and sorting.
The affiliate members of the factory carry out all agronomic activities associated with coffee production i.e. they source coffee from the Coffee Research Station and plant it according to the stipulated guidelines. They also manage weeding, pruning, spraying, and application of fertiliser, mulching, and technical advice which is offered through farmer training programs and field visits/days through the ministry of agriculture. Compliance to the agreed guidelines is checked and supervised by the field committee which goes round the farms. They usually check that coffee is not inter-grown with other crops such as maize and Beans, though they do allow intercropping with Macadamia. They also encourage farmers who have abandoned their coffee bushes to come more so due to high prices.
In line with the rising awareness on the need to conserve the environment, the factory has dug the waste water soak pits away from the water source where the waste water is allowed to soak in back to the soil. However, the factory does not engage in waste water treatment at the moment. Additionally the society encourages its members to plant trees on their farms.
Gicherori factory has long-term goals to increase coffee production, training seminars, and access to education and sustainable processes for the farmers they work with. They also maintain a demonstration plot that farmers can visit and reference in relation to their own plots.
The factory manager is John Mbogo, pictured in the purple shirt below.
Kenya mainly produces fully washed coffees, and is considered by many as the world’s number one quality producer. There are more than 700,000 coffee farmers (smallholders) representing about 55% of the production. The rest is produced mostly by large farms known as Estates.
Almost all our coffees in Kenya are grown by smallholder farmers, each with 1-2 hectares of land. Many farmers will grow different crops and maybe have as few as 100 coffee trees. The farmers are organised in Cooperative Societies that act as umbrella organisations for the Factories (wet mills), where the smallholders deliver their coffee cherries for processing.
Many of the farmers are surrounded by several wet mills and they are free to choose where they deliver their cherries. Due to the traditional auction system in Kenya, quality is rewarded with higher prices. The better factories will then attract more farmers by producing coffees that earn the highest prices, which they return to the farmers in the form of a second payment. After the cost of marketing and preparation is deducted, this can sometimes be up to 90% of the sales price.
In the mill everything is kept separate for the auction, and it’s a great opportunity to cup through the different grades from the same outturns and consignments. We are usually able to cup extensively at the mill or the lab of the marketing agent to pick out our coffees before they enter the auction catalogue. Whenever we have found a coffee and want to commit, we will have the marketing agent negotiate the price directly with the producers, in our case the Cooperative Society as we normally buy from the smallholders cooperatives.
The Kenyan system is transparent towards the farmers, and everything is more or less separated into small lots and different grades. If you buy coffees directly through the second window (meaning not through the auction), the producers expect to get prices above the average auction prices at present time. In addition, the system is transparent as everybody knows how much is going back to the society after the cost of milling and marketing is deducted.
In fact, many of the more serious societies and factories are competing, getting cherries in from the same areas, and are putting effort and pride into paying the highest returns to their farmers. Some of the coops we work with have been able to pay up to 90% back to the farmers.
This is done at the wet mills or at collection centres. When the farmers arrive at the place for delivery they would normally have to empty their bags on a covered section of the floor to sort out unripe, overripe and CBD infected cherries.
When they start the pulper the cherries are pulled by gravity down into the machine. They normally use disc pulpers such as old three disc Agaarde or similar brands. The parchment flows from the discs with water allowing the beans to be separated by density. The densest beans will sink and are pumped straight through a channel to the fermentation tank as P1 (parchment 1) which is what we usually buy.
After pulping, the coffees are dry fermented (water is drained off) in painted concrete tanks. Normally they are fermented for 18-24 hours. Many factories do intermediate washing every 6 – 8 hours, meaning they add water, stir up the parchment and drain it again.
Washing and soaking
When fermentation is completed and the mucilage is dissolved the parchment gets washed in washing channels and graded again by density. The lighter beans will float off and the remaining dense parchment will normally be soaked in clean water for up to 24 hours.
After soaking, the coffees are dried on hessian mesh mats for up to one day, then moved to the traditional drying tables. The coffee is normally dried on a surface of jute cloth or shade net layered over the table’s wire mesh.
The drying time varies between 12 and 20 days depending on weather and rainfall.
Sourcing, milling and export
The dry mills in Kenya are highly professional and efficient. The coffees are graded according to the following system:
- E (Elephant beans) = screen 19 and up
- AA = 17/18
- AB = 16/17
- PB = Peaberries.